The number one comment I hear from my neighbors about my yard is how I keep the grass so uniform, beautiful, and weed-free. They see my pets and relatives running barefoot on the turf around my house and ask about my techniques in mowing, watering, and maintaining the grass so that it is such a uniform, luscious green color that matches the color of my bushes and trees. “There are no yellow spots, it’s just all green!”
A green yard is something we should all strive to achieve. After all, the green color that we see is primarily composed by the chlorophyll found in our turf, which means it is healthy and going through photosynthesis to create energy for itself. In fact, “green” comes from old English words that have the same word roots as grass and grow. When I stare at my green lawn, it reminds me about the freshness of Springtime and also gives me feelings of hope and calmness.
Regardless of where you are taking care of a your grass, whether it be around a house, apartment, or office, I’m sure you’re ultimate goal is to have a beautiful, well-maintained green lawn.
You’ll learn how to make the property be able to maintain its beautiful color.
Types of Grasses
While many may think grass is grass, and as long as it’s green, it’s good – but there’s a little more to it than that. Knowing the type of grass you have gives you a better understanding of why it grows the way it does and the specific requirements of your lawn.
It’s also essential to understand grass types if you are seeding a new lawn or reseeding an existing one.
Different types are classified based on the temperatures they grow best and are known as either warm-season or cool-season grasses. The two different types demand slightly different growing conditions because they have different photosynthesis pathways.
Cool-season grasses grow in areas that have colder climates. They are typically found in the Northern United States; temperatures in the summertime are milder, and winters can be harsh with a lot of snow.
They have the following distinct characteristics:
- Once air temperatures reach 40 to 42℉ in the springtime, the blades, or shoots, will begin active growth for the season.
- Most of its growth occurs in the spring and late fall when air temperatures hover between 65 and 75℉.
- They need more water in the summer heat to keep their lush, green color vibrant.
The most commonly grown cool-season grasses include:
- Annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum)
- Creeping bentgrass (Agrostis palustris)
- Creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra var. rubra)
- Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis)
- Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne)
- Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea)
On the other hand, the warm-season grasses grow primarily in the Southern United States, where summer daytime temperatures are hot, and winters don’t often see snow. They handle the heat, but not the cold.
They have the following distinct characteristics:
- Active growth starts in the spring when air temperatures reach 60 to 65℉, and soil temps hit 50℉.
- Most of the green growth occurs when average temperatures are between 85 and 95℉, from July to September.
- During the hotter stretches of temperatures, they can increase their photosynthesis rate to better use nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus.
- In contrast to their cool-season counterparts, they are better adapted to handle environmental stressors like drought and high temperatures.
- During the colder winter season, they go into dormancy to protect themselves, with the blades turning brown until temperatures warm up in the spring.
Common warm-season grasses include:
- Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum)
- Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon)
- Buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides)
- Carpet grass (Axonopus affinis)
- Centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides)
- St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum)
- Zoysia grass (Zoysia japonica)
Proper Lawn Care
Proper lawn care is not hard, but it requires time. Keeping it watered, fertilized, mown, controlling the weeds all takes time, but it’s worth it for a great looking yard.
Water properly is essential to your grass’ health. When you water the right amount, your turf will look healthy due to appropriate turgor and photosynthesis at the cellular level. On the other hand, over watering will result in rot, mold, pests, and other invasive plants.
Proper watering is dependent on a couple main factors – the amount of rain you receive, your sprinkler system, and the amount of sun your grass receives after being watered. Click the link above to take a deeper dive into how to water the correct amount.
Most lawns need on average 1-1.5″ of water every week. In some climates, your grass can survive by depending on rainfall, but in other areas you will need a sprinkler or irrigation system for supplemental moisture. This can be provided through a sprinkler or irrigation system controlled by a smart watering system. The frequency in which water is applied and the amount to administer each time varies depending on your soil type and the climate of your growing zone.
When it comes to lawn care and water, space the timing out as far as possible to encourage the root systems to move deeper into the soil. This means applying a larger amount of water less often. Lawns with loamy or silty soils should be watered about twice a week with about ½” of water each time. Heavy clay soils can be watered less frequently, and sandy soils need more frequent watering.
Like all plants, your grass needs certain nutrients for it to grow. But over time, these nutrients are depleted from the soil. Your soil will need to be supplemented with fertilizers.
Grasses respond best to fertilizers formulated with higher nitrogen levels and lower amounts of phosphorus and potassium. The increased nitrogen encourages better plant vigor and lush, green blade growth. For most types of grass, a fertilizer with a ratio of 20-5-10 or 18-6-12 is recommended.
When soil temperatures reach 55-60°F in the spring, start your fertilization program by applying an early-season application of quick-release fertilizer. Then switch to a granular-slow release type, applying every six to eight weeks while your grass is actively growing. With every application, make sure your water the fertilizer into the soil well.
Mowing Your Lawn
Proper mowing is a very important step of proper lawn care.
Always be careful not to cut the blades too short. It is better to err on the taller side. By keeping it taller, you will help the soil retain moisture from the shade it throws and promote a deeper root system, improving its drought tolerance.
Make sure to keep the lawnmower blades sharp and free of any nicks or gouges and your engine well-oiled. This ensures the blades are sheared cleanly instead of being torn. Tearing the grass blades causes water to evaporate through the jagged edge, causing undue stress.
Kill Invasive Plants, Fungus, and Pests
Opportunistic organisms will take over your yard if you give them the right conditions. And it’s not a pretty. For instance, obtrusive weeds can quickly become an eyesore and rapidly spread if they aren’t controlled soon after discovery. All of these things will also compete for sunlight, water, and nutrients, reducing the overall health of your lawn. You’ll want to make sure to get rid of the weeds, fungus, and pests before they become rampant.
A thick, healthy lawn is what homeowners strive for, but there reaches a point when the grass can become too thick. This dense mat of blades and roots then prevents water and fertilizer from moving down to the roots. In these cases, aeration is necessar.
When your lawn is growing well, it’s best to aerate it annually. Aeration is the process of removing cores of soil to create openings for water and nutrient movement.
It is best to aerate when the grass is actively growing in the late spring or early fall, giving the grass time to heal itself.
Recommended Tools and Equipment
The equipment you will need will vary depending upon the size of the lawn you’re maintaining. Tools will help make your life easier. At the very least, you’ll need hose or sprinkler system, a lawn mower, a rake, and fertilizer spreader. For more details about what tools you will need, click here.
The size of your yard dictates the best type of mower to purchase.
- Walk-behind mowers are good for small to medium-sized suburban properties. They come in reel models, corded or battery-powered electric motors, and gasoline engine models. Their small size makes them easy to store, and they are budget-friendly.
- Riding mowers are great for larger properties or if you are unable to walk for long periods of time. They make quick work of mowing your grass but they need regular maintenance and a larger storage area, and come with a hefty price tag.
A string trimmer is a useful tool for manicuring the edges of your property, keeping it looking neat and tidy. They come in corded, battery-powered, and gas engine models.
- Corded trimmers are light and quiet, but they keep you tethered to an extension cord and have the least amount of power.
- Battery-powered models have great range and medium power output, but they have limited run time before the battery needs recharged.
- Gas engine trimmers are the most powerful, but they are noisy and give off exhaust fumes. Depending upon the engine type, you may need to mix gasoline and oil to operate them.
Hose & Sprinkler
Even if you live in an area with adequate rainfall, having a hose and sprinkler is necessary for maintaining a lawn, especially if you have a problem spot that doesn’t hold water or are reseeding.
Buy a hose in just the length you need, avoiding something too long. Opt for one that is rubber to prevent splitting with cast brass couplings.
Sprinklers can be purchased in fixed patterns, oscillating, or rotating heads. Fixed patterns are better suited for small lawns; sprinklers that oscillate or rotate are useful for covering larger lawns.
A simple leaf rake is useful for removing grass clippings after mowing or raking up fallen leaves in the fall.
Leaf rakes can be purchased with either metal or plastic tines. Metal is more durable but tends to be heavier and more expensive.
You will need a spreader to apply fertilizer. You can choose between a wheeled spreader or a hand-held unit.
Wheeled spreaders are great if you have a larger lawn, making quicker work of applications.
- Drop spreaders drop product directly between the wheels, giving you careful control over where you are applying the product. They are best if you have a lot of tight turns in your yard or planting beds.
- Broadcast spreaders cast material outward in a broad, overlapping pattern. They are best for large properties without many tight turns.
Hand-held spreaders dispense product in front of you as you walk, powered by either a battery or a hand crank. They are simple to use and work best for properties less than 1500 square feet in size.
This is one of those tools that isn’t required, but definitely makes your life easier. Also known as a weed popper, this handy tool helps remove weeds efficiently from below the soil surface, getting the root system as well.
Weed tools come in a variety of different sizes and styles. For simplicity, I prefer the type that looks similar to a screwdriver, with a forked end. Long-handled versions are more comfortable for people with limited mobility or back problems but have a higher price tag.
How to Reseed
You may think of reseeding as a project to tackle when your lawn is sparse or lackluster, putting down new seed to revive it. But the truth is, even a healthy lawn can benefit from being reseeded every four or five years.
Whether reseeding a struggling lawn or overseeding one in good condition, make sure you are timing it correctly. Reseed in late summer to early fall in northern climates, and the fall if you live in the South. Your soil temps should be above 65℉ for optimum germination rates, but the new grass needs time to develop a good root system before the winter.
There are four steps involved with reseeding: prepping, seeding, fertilizing, and watering.
- Prep the area you are reseeding. This helps seeds to fall to the soil surface where they can receive the sunlight and water they need for germination.
- Start by aerating the existing turf to remove thatch and other debris and loosen the soil.
- Mow the lawn shorter than normal, making sure to bag or rake up all of the clippings.
- Throw down seed.
- Opt for a high-quality seed corresponding to the sun conditions in your yard, choosing from warm-season or cool-season grasses depending upon your local climate.
- Put down seed at the rates recommended on the label for overseeding or reseeding. For larger lawns, use a drop or broadcast spreader; small areas can be done by hand.
- Fertilize the area to promote strong growth post-germination.
- Seed has the nutrients it needs to get itself germinated but it will need extra help from fertilizers once roots and shoots appear. Spread a starter fertilizer formulated specifically for new turf growth anywhere you reseeded, avoiding anything labeled as a pre-emergent (this inhibits germination).
- Keep the soil moist.
- Seeds need consistent water for germination. Keep the soil moist at all times by watering lightly, three to four times a day for the first week. After the seed starts to germinate, switch to heavier waterings once a day to facilitate deeper roots.